How to wash and care for a wool jumper
We love natural yarns—their scent, their texture and the way they gradually change with wear. We also value handmade work, because behind every jumper, scarf or hat are hours of concentration, patience and countless small decisions.
To us, an item like this is more than just a piece of clothing. It is something we have made ourselves, adapted to our own preferences and often formed a personal connection with.
To help our hand-knitted items last as long as possible, they need a slightly different approach from ordinary clothing. Wool, alpaca, cashmere, mohair and yak are natural materials that reward proper care with a long life, a beautiful appearance and lasting comfort.
There is no need to be afraid of wearing them or to leave them sitting unused in a wardrobe. You simply need to know when to wash them, how to air and clean them, how to dry them and how to store them correctly.
Good care does not have to be complicated. It often means washing less, airing more, handling items gently and using suitable products. If we care for our hand-knitted pieces with the same attention we gave them while making them, they can serve us for many years.
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Why wool jumpers do not need to be washed after every wear
A wool jumper does not need to be washed as often as a T-shirt, underwear or sportswear. Wool naturally manages moisture and odours, so it does not become dirty as quickly during normal wear.
Wool fibres can absorb moisture from the air and from the skin into their core while the surface of the jumper remains dry to the touch. Wool also does not retain odours as quickly as many synthetic materials. After wearing it, simply airing the jumper and allowing it to rest is often enough.
It also matters that a jumper is usually not worn directly against the skin, but over a T-shirt, shirt or another layer. Most perspiration, skin oils and dirt are therefore absorbed by the layer underneath rather than by the jumper itself.
Frequent washing also places unnecessary strain on knitted fabric. Water, detergent, friction and handling can gradually alter its shape, surface and softness. Every wash subjects the fibres to mechanical stress and increases the risk of stretching, pilling or felting.
Wash a wool jumper mainly when:
- it is visibly dirty,
- it has a stain that cannot be removed by spot cleaning,
- it smells of perspiration or has another noticeable odour,
- or you want to store it for an extended period.
For normal wear, airing is often entirely sufficient. Washing less frequently does not mean neglecting the garment. With wool, it is one of the best ways to extend its life.
How and why to air wool jumpers
Do not put a wool jumper straight back into the wardrobe after wearing it. First, let it air freely for a few hours, ideally laid over the back of a chair, on a drying rack or on a flat surface.
During wear, wool absorbs moisture from the body as well as odours from the surroundings. In the open air, the moisture gradually evaporates, odours fade and the fibres can return closer to their original shape.
A heavier jumper should not be left hanging on a clothes hanger for a long time, as it may stretch at the shoulders. For brief airing, drape it over a wide chair back or lay it out so that its weight is supported evenly.
Air it in a dry, well-ventilated place away from strong, direct sunlight. A few hours—or a night in the fresh air—is often quite enough.
In Nordic countries, woollen items were traditionally aired in freezing weather or laid in clean, dry snow. Frost freshens the jumper, while dry, powdery snow can pick up some dust and surface dirt.
This is not a substitute for a thorough wash, but rather a gentle way to freshen wool without unnecessary soaking and mechanical stress.
If you would like to try this method, use only clean, dry snow in freezing weather. First let the jumper cool down outdoors, then place it on the snow briefly, turn it over gently and finally shake off any remaining snow thoroughly. Lay it flat afterwards to finish drying and airing.
Wet, melting or dirty snow is not suitable. This method also does not replace washing when the item is stained or heavily soiled.
Spot cleaning stains
If only a small area becomes dirty, there is no need to wash the entire jumper immediately.
First, gently blot a fresh stain with a clean cloth or paper towel. Do not rub it, as friction can push the dirt deeper into the fibres and also increase the risk of felting.
Apply a small amount of gentle wool detergent diluted in lukewarm water. Carefully dab the area with a cloth or soft sponge, ideally working from the edges towards the centre.
Then gently remove any detergent residue with clean water at a similar temperature.
With hand-dyed yarns, it is advisable to test the cleaning product on an inconspicuous area first. Leave the cleaned section lying flat to dry.
Spot cleaning is best suited to small stains and surface dirt. For more extensive soiling or a strong odour, it is better to wash the entire jumper.
Hand washing
Hand washing is the gentlest way to wash a wool jumper, especially one made from non-superwash wool, alpaca, mohair, cashmere or yak.
Fill a clean sink or basin with lukewarm to comfortably warm water, approximately 25–30°C. There is no need to be afraid of warm water. A higher temperature alone does not automatically damage or felt wool; yarn is routinely heated to much higher temperatures during dyeing.
The main problem is the combination of water, friction, vigorous movement and sudden changes in temperature. The washing and rinsing water should therefore be approximately the same temperature. Do not move the jumper directly from warm water into cold water, and do not rub or agitate it unnecessarily while washing.
Add a small amount of detergent specifically formulated for wool and delicate protein fibres. What matters is not only the wording on the front of the package, but also the ingredients.
Wool, alpaca, mohair, cashmere and yak fibres are composed mainly of proteins. An unsuitable detergent can gradually dry out or weaken the fibres, or change the way the knitted fabric behaves.
In particular, avoid products containing:
- protease enzymes,
- bleach,
- strongly alkaline ingredients,
- fabric softener,
- optical brighteners,
- aggressive degreasing surfactants.
Proteases break down protein-based stains, but they may also affect the fibre itself. Bleach can damage the colour and weaken the yarn. Strongly alkaline conditions are unsuitable for wool, while fabric softener can coat the fibres, reduce their elasticity and cause the knitted fabric to lose its shape more easily.
Fragrance alone does not necessarily damage the fibre, but it may cause unnecessary irritation for sensitive skin or in items worn directly against the body.
Mix the detergent into the water before adding the jumper. Gently submerge it until it is completely soaked. Do not rub, scrub or wring it. Simply press it very gently beneath the surface a few times, then leave it to soak for approximately 10–20 minutes, or follow the instructions on the detergent packaging.
If you are using a no-rinse detergent, you can drain the water after soaking. If you are using a conventional detergent, gently rinse the jumper in clean water at approximately the same temperature as the washing water.
Never twist or wring a wet jumper. Twisting can distort the stitches, stretch the knitted fabric and mechanically damage the fibres.
Gently press the water out of the jumper with your palms. Support the entire item when lifting it from the basin, as wet wool is very heavy. Do not lift it by the shoulders, neckline or sleeves.
Next, place the jumper on a clean towel, roll the towel and jumper together, and gently press out more of the excess water. The jumper should remain damp, but water should no longer drip from it.
Gentle laundry products in our range:
Sonett Wool and Silk Detergent
A gentle detergent designed for wool, silk and other delicate fabrics. It is suitable for both hand washing and machine washing on a wool or delicates programme. It contains soap made from organic olive oil and plant-based surfactants, and contains neither enzymes nor petrochemical ingredients. Unlike no-rinse detergents, it must be rinsed out after washing. It is a good choice for the regular washing of jumpers, scarves, hats and delicate knitted items.
Sonett Wool Care is not a conventional detergent, but a conditioning treatment for wool and silk. It contains natural lanolin and olive-oil soap, which help restore the oils, elasticity and softness that fibres may lose through frequent washing.
It is particularly suitable for heavily used woollen items, drier or coarser wool, and wool nappy covers. It can be used by hand or in a washing machine, where the diluted product is poured into the fabric-softener compartment. It is not intended for every wash, but rather as an occasional restorative treatment.
Eucalan is a gentle no-rinse detergent for wool and delicate fabrics. It is primarily intended for hand washing, but can also be used in a washing machine on a delicates or wool programme.
Its main advantage is that the item does not need to be rinsed after soaking. This means the woollen fabric is moved and mechanically stressed less, reducing the risk of felting and stretching. Eucalan contains lanolin, a small amount of which remains in the fibres and helps keep them soft and supple. It is important not to exceed the recommended dosage, so that no coating remains on the fabric.
Knools Wool Care is a gentle detergent containing soapwort, a plant that naturally contains saponins with cleansing properties. According to the manufacturer, it is made from 100% natural ingredients and is suitable for wool, merino, cashmere, alpaca, mohair and cotton.
It is intended mainly for hand washing. Add one capful to lukewarm water, leave the knitted item to soak for up to an hour and then rinse it with clean water. Unlike Eucalan, it is not a no-rinse product. It is suitable for customers looking for very gentle cleaning, natural ingredients and a product that is also suitable for sensitive skin.
Machine washing
Modern washing machines have a special wool programme that differs significantly from conventional wash cycles.
During a standard programme, the drum rotates more frequently, the laundry tumbles and rubs against itself more, and the final spin is more intensive. This combination of water, movement and friction can cause knitted fabric to felt, shrink or become distorted.
A wool programme operates much more gently. The drum usually rocks only lightly, with longer pauses between movements, so the jumper tumbles less. The programme also maintains a stable temperature and uses a gentler spin cycle.
The exact operation differs between washing machines, so it is important to find out how your particular machine behaves.
The best test is a knitted swatch. If you have a new yarn and do not know how machine washing will affect it, knit a swatch and wash it on the wool programme together with a few similarly delicate items.
Once dry, check whether it has felted, shrunk, stretched or changed noticeably in texture. This will tell you not only how the particular yarn behaves, but also whether you can trust your machine's wool programme.
Care instructions on labels are often deliberately cautious because a manufacturer cannot know which washing machine, detergent and programme a customer will use. A hand-wash label does not therefore automatically mean that an item will be ruined in every washing machine. However, neither does it guarantee that machine washing will be safe.
Your experience with your own washing machine and the result of washing the swatch are what matter most.
If you already know that your machine's wool programme is genuinely gentle, you can use it for delicate knitted items, including lace knits, cashmere, alpaca and non-superwash wool. You must still use the correct programme, a small amount of suitable wool detergent and an appropriate spin speed.
It is a good idea to turn the jumper inside out and, if necessary, place it in a large laundry bag. Do not wash it with jeans, towels, garments with zips or other heavy items that could subject it to mechanical stress.
It is best to wash it on its own or with a few similarly delicate items.
Select the wool or hand-wash programme, a temperature of approximately 20–40°C and a low spin speed. Around 400–600 rpm is sufficient for very delicate knitted items.
Use only a small amount of detergent designed for wool, and avoid fabric softener, bleach and general-purpose laundry gel.
Take particular care with strongly coloured and hand-dyed yarns. Intense reds, pinks, turquoises, blues and purples may release colour, especially during the first few washes.
Wash these jumpers separately or only with similar colours. Even an item that has been washed before may release dye if soaked for a long time or washed with an unsuitable detergent.
Remove the jumper as soon as the programme finishes. Do not leave it wet and crumpled in the drum. Support the entire item when taking it out, as soaked knitted fabric is heavy and could stretch if lifted by the shoulders or sleeves.
Drying flat
The safest way to dry a wool jumper is to lay it flat on an even surface.
Wet knitted fabric is much heavier than dry fabric, and its fibres are more pliable after washing. Hanging a wet jumper on a clothes hanger or washing line can allow the weight of the water to stretch it lengthways, distort the shoulders or create unnatural creases.
After washing, first remove excess water gently. You can place the jumper on a clean towel, roll the towel and jumper together, and use light pressure to squeeze out the moisture.
Then lay the jumper out on a dry towel, mesh drying rack or blocking mat.
As you lay it out, gently shape it to the required measurements. Straighten the shoulders, sleeves, side seams, neckline and lower hem.
If the item has stretched a little during washing, you can carefully ease it back into the correct shape. Conversely, if you need to make it slightly larger, you can gently adjust it while it is still damp.
When shaping, you can also use blocking T-pins (ordinary pins work too), blocking wires or other blocking tools to secure the item to the mat in the desired shape. This is not necessary for every jumper, but is useful for lace shawls, prominent stitch patterns or when a particular section needs more precise shaping.
If, for example, you have knitted the sleeves a little too short, you can gently stretch them to the desired length while damp and pin them to the mat. Then leave the knitted item in this position until it is completely dry. Space the pins evenly to prevent sharp points or rippling along the edges.
Bear in mind that knitted fabric usually cannot be stretched significantly in every direction at once. Stretching it widthways may make it slightly shorter. Stretching it lengthways may make it a little narrower.
It is therefore helpful to keep a tape measure at hand and check the measurements throughout the shaping process. Blocking can gently adjust an item, but it cannot correct a very large difference in size.
Dry the jumper away from direct sunlight, hot radiators and other strong heat sources. Intense heat may cause uneven drying, distortion or fading.
A dry place with good air circulation is best.
If the jumper is drying on a towel, you can turn it over or move it to a dry towel after a few hours. Thicker jumpers take longer to dry, so it is important not to allow moisture to remain trapped underneath them for a long time.
Drying flat therefore does more than simply allow a jumper to dry. It is also the final stage during which we can restore its correct shape and measurements.
Tumble drying
In some cases, a wool jumper can also be dried in a tumble dryer, but only on a programme specifically designed for wool.
A standard drying cycle uses more heat and continuously tumbles the garment in the drum. This combination of heat, friction and movement can cause knitted fabric to shrink, felt or become distorted.
A wool programme operates much more gently. Depending on the type of dryer, it uses a lower temperature, intermittent drum rotation or a special movement that minimises tumbling.
In some models, the drum spins in such a way that the jumper remains pressed against the drum wall while warm air simply flows through it. Other dryers use a special rack on which the item lies while the drum rotates around it.
It is therefore important to know your own dryer. The label “wool programme” does not mean that every model dries wool in the same way.
The safest approach is to test the programme on a knitted and washed swatch first. Once it is dry, check whether the swatch has shrunk, felted or changed shape noticeably.
The advantage of tumble drying is its speed and the fact that the woollen item may remain soft and fluffy. With some superwash yarns, gentle tumble drying can even help the knitted fabric contract again if it became too loose after washing.
The disadvantage is that we cannot see the jumper laid out during drying and cannot gradually shape it to the desired measurements. When drying flat, we can adjust the sleeve length, body width or neckline shape. We do not have this control in a tumble dryer.
If you decide to use a tumble dryer, select only a dedicated wool programme, a low temperature and the gentlest possible cycle.
Place the jumper in the drum on its own or only with similarly delicate items. Do not add towels, jeans or heavy laundry that would increase friction.
With non-superwash wool, cashmere, mohair or very delicate lace knits, it is always sensible to test a swatch first. If you are unsure of the result, drying flat remains the safer option.
Removing pills
Pills on a wool jumper are not automatically a sign of poor-quality yarn. They form mainly as a result of friction during wear.
Shorter or looser fibres gradually work their way to the surface, become entangled and form small balls. They appear most often under the arms, at the sides, on sleeves and cuffs, and wherever the jumper rubs against a coat, handbag, rucksack or seat belt.
Fine, soft yarns may pill more than firmer, more robust fibres. This is particularly true of merino, cashmere, alpaca and more loosely spun yarns.
This is not necessarily a defect in the material. It is a natural consequence of fine fibres being more easily loosened and drawn to the surface.
It is best to remove pills regularly while they are still small. Always lay the jumper on a flat surface, gently pull the fabric taut and work without applying heavy pressure.
You can use:
- a comb for cashmere or delicate knits,
- an electric fabric shaver,
- a gentle clothes brush,
- or a GLEENER manual fabric shaver with interchangeable edges.
The GLEENER manual fabric shaver is practical because it comes with several edges for different materials and degrees of pilling. The gentler edge is suitable for smooth, delicate knitted items, while the coarser one is designed for sturdier materials and more pronounced pills.
This means you do not have to use the same surface on delicate cashmere and a robust wool jumper.
Do not pull pills off with your fingers. You may pull out additional fibres along with them and gradually weaken the surface of the knitted fabric.
When using an electric fabric shaver, take particular care around lace, cable patterns, loose stitches and thin areas. Guide the device lightly without pressing, so that it does not catch the knitted fabric itself.
Mohair, alpaca and other naturally fluffy yarns require extra care. The aim is not to remove the yarn's natural halo.
It is better to brush these jumpers gently with a soft brush or remove only larger pills with great care.
Regular, gentle removal of pills helps a jumper look neat and preserves its attractive appearance. It is better to remove pills gently and more often than to strip a large quantity of fibres from the surface aggressively once in a while.
Storing hand-knitted items
Hand-knitted jumpers, cardigans, scarves and hats are best stored clean, completely dry and folded flat.
On a clothes hanger, they can stretch under their own weight, especially around the shoulders, neckline or sleeves. This is particularly true of heavier jumpers made from alpaca, cotton or superwash wool.
Before storing an item for a longer period—for example, at the end of the winter season—it is advisable to wash it or at least air it thoroughly and inspect it.
Traces of perspiration, skin oils, food or perfume can attract clothes moths and other textile pests, even when the jumper appears clean.
Store knitted items in a drawer, on a shelf or in a sealable box. If you use a plastic box, the jumper must be completely dry to prevent moisture from becoming trapped inside.
Cotton or fabric storage bags that allow the material to breathe are also a good choice.
For protection against moths, you can add a lavender sachet, cedar wood or another insect repellent. Fragrance alone does not remain effective indefinitely, so it needs to be refreshed regularly.
Most importantly, keep the wardrobe clean and occasionally take stored items out, shake them and inspect them.
Do not stack jumpers too tightly. If they remain compressed in a wardrobe for many months, they can become distorted and lose their loft.
Place delicate items on top, or put a sheet of thin tissue paper or clean cotton fabric between them.
If you discover small holes, loose fibres, webbing or larvae, act immediately. Separate the affected item from the others, inspect the entire wardrobe and clean everything thoroughly.
Freezing delicate woollen items for several days in a tightly sealed bag can also help. After removing the bag from the freezer, allow the item to thaw while it is still sealed to prevent moisture from condensing on it.
When stored correctly, hand-knitted items retain their shape, appearance and quality and can last for many years.